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It's open 24 hours a day, but in almost no other way does Han Bat resemble the multitiered food halls that define Koreatown for most hungry revelers. By comparison, the narrow room feels intimate, with wood trimming the floors, walls, and ceiling, and hanging lanterns casting a soft glow rather than the more common harsh glare of fluorescent bulbs. Intimate, that is, despite the familiar rollicking K-town scene inside. During dinner, the line often snakes out the door and servers dodge diners and one another as they rush to deposit plates bearing crispy pancakes dotted with squid on nearly every table. Though it has no tabletop grills, as is the Koreatown norm, Han Bat offers familiar dishes like mandoo, a pile of crispy half-moon-shaped dumplings, and excellent bibimbap, served in a hot stone pot so the rice in contact with the stone develops a delightfully crunchy crust. Fans of adventure (and offal) will be happy to find plenty of intestines, feet, and tripe served up in stir-fries, soups, and stews, as delicious at lunchtime as they are at 3 a.m. — JJ Goode

Gobdol bibimbab, $13.95; mandoo, $12.95; marinated raw beef, $16.95; pig feet in spicy sauce, $14.95