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Owner Jimmy Bradley has replaced Amanda Freitag in the kitchen but the show has moved on and has even added lunch service. Amanda Freitag, took the helm from Brian Bistrong when he left to open Braeburn; Bistrong followed Joey Campanaro, now chef-owner of the little owl. Freitag references her Mediterranean experience in airy house-made gnocchi covered in a rich oxtail ragu, a side of truffled orzo, and lamb roasted with rosemary, fennel, and anchovy. She shows restraint, however, when highlighting seasonal, local ingredients that make for some of the best dishes. Chunks of squash and crisped Brussels sprouts arrive room temperature in a hearty salad tossed with salty pumpkin seeds for added crunch; chicken with lemon and garlic is stellar for its simple execution; and a tangle of bronzed duck-fat fries can be poked into a side of mayo spiked with vinegar. The 85-seat space is full nearly every night, while the long bar attracts squatters who inhale a salty-spicy confetti of hazelnuts between sips of herbaceous house cocktails like the Harrison Tonic, with Maker’s Mark and Dr. Brown’s celray soda. If desserts like a chocolate tart with a squelchy salted pretzel crust don’t live up to their fantasy descriptions, housemade ice cream is a good bet. — Alexandra Vallis

Seasonal salads, $12; duckfat fries, $9.

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Featured In

• Adam Platt's Where to Eat 2009 (1/5/09)

Recipes at The Harrison

• Sunflower Salad (2003)