Marco Canora, who cooked at Gramercy Tavern and Craft, has bid adieu to Colicchio and company. Well, almost: He's brought Gramercy Tavern alumnus Paul Grieco along as his partner. Aside from the fact that main dishes come equipped with seasonal sides, as in the superb roasted and braised lamb shoulder with lamb's sausage, the Italian-accented menu reads very Crafty, including dishes like the heavenly gnocchi and hen of the woods mushrooms. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
Tasting Menu
Five courses, $82
Recommended Dishes
Grilled quail, $13; braised veal breast, $28; roasted and braised lamb shoulder with lamb sausage, $31; goat milk panna cotta, $9
I am a NYC fine dining regular and was excited to give Hearth a shot after numerous excellent reviews. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a pleasant hostess and a large, spare dining room with padded carpet strips on one wall. Hearth has a large, complicated wine list that is likely excellent by-the-bottle, but too highbrow if going by-the-glass. After plenty of consultation with our server, we opted for the autumn tasting menu with one substitution. The salad course was not remarkable, with light dressing reminiscent of Henri's Tas-tee on the pear and pecorino salad. Next, came lukewarm pumpkin ravioli that was so sweet it made my teeth ache, like a too-rich dessert. The main course was venison (again, lukewarm), which was overcooked and which the server smartly and subtly tried to warn me off. I should have taken her advice. My wife substituted the duck, which was excellent and the best thing we ate that evening. The apple crisp dessert was very basic and very good. In the end, I was turned off by the coldness of the dining room and the average quality of the food, especially at those prices.
I don't care what others say, you'd be CRAZY not to eat here
I took a date and we sat at the kitchen pass; a real treat, especially since I work as a cook in Brooklyn. We chose the Riesling from Alsace; light with nice acidity. I had the chilled corn soup with fennel and gulf shrimp, a perfectly balanced Summer soup. She had the beet salad, which was expertly seasoned and beautifully presented. Next I had the zucchini raviolo; a pouch of perfectly cooked pasta enveloping ricotta, zucchini, onions and tomato. She had the chicken with polenta and market vegetables. I'm not usually a fan of poultry but this was delicious. One critique I have is that, in general, they could hold back just a tad on the salt, but that's it. We both enjoyed the pie of the day; key lime with graham cracker crust, presented with a beautiful quinelle of whipped cream. The hostess and our server were friendly and knowledgeable, the decor was warm and inviting. We both had a wonderful time and agreed that it was the perfect place for a date. In fact, if I had the cash I'd go back again tomorrow!