Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-11:30pm; Sun, noon-11pm
4, 5, 6 at 86th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
80th St. to 90th St., York Ave. to Lexington Ave.
Since 1964, the Heidelberg Restaurant has embodied Yorkville's Germanic heritage with its stout cuisine and oceans of fresh beer. The casual space feels like an old Bavarian hunting lodge, with a deer antler chandelier, musty dark paintings and trellises, and a lederhosen-attired staff. And in case you missed the Teutonic touches, incessantly happy German drinking songs are piped in, in all their oom-pa-pa glory. If all this sounds a bit over the top, it is, and so is the cooking. A half-dozen wursts—some sourced from the inimitable Schaller & Weber nearby—are outstanding, and are served with a superb, slightly warm German potato salad with hints of vinegar. The grandma-worthy potato pancakes are exceptionally light and crispy. Wiener schnitzels are likewise impeccably fried and come in sic varieties, the most intriguing being à la Holstein, featuring a fried egg, anchovies, and capers. Schweinshaxe (roast pork shank), sauerbraten (sweet-and-sour, marinated roast beef), and kassler rippchen (smoked pork chop) ooze authenticity. Even side dishes like red cabbage and delicate, butter-fried spaetzle would drive King Ludwig mad. A wide selection of German beers on tap, which are usually quaffed in 1-liter steins, ensures an Oktoberfest atmosphere every night.Recommended Dishes
Potato pancakes, $12.95; sausage platter for one, $16.95; schnitzel a la holstein, $25.95