Is it a bakery masquerading as a breakfast joint disguised as a sandwich shop? Or is it a sophisticated modern American restaurant, serving tweaked comfort-food classics, deft cocktails, and eclectic domestic wines? This spinoff of Philadelphia’s High Street on Market is all of the above, actually, and it even manages to make the multitasking look easy. Now that baker extraordinaire Melissa Weller has joined Ellen Yin and Eli Kulp as partner, she has made her presence known with a roster of real-thing bagels and pastries that combine French technique with a passion for ancient grains (as in the spelt scone) and worldly flavors (a black-sesame kouign-amann, for example). Her culinary collaborator, chef Mary Attea, has remade the savory menu with dishes like “torched” mackerel and beef on weck, which are inspired, respectively, by the restaurant where she previously worked (Annisa) and the city where she grew up (Buffalo).