High Street on Hudson

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85 Very Good

The Philadelphia import excels at being many things to many people, from all-day café and bustling brunch spot to neighborhood dinner standby.

637 Hudson St., New York, NY, 10014

917-388-3944

http://highstreetonhudson.com/

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The lowdown

Is it a bakery masquerading as a breakfast joint disguised as a sandwich shop? Or is it a sophisticated modern American restaurant, serving tweaked comfort-food classics, deft cocktails, and eclectic domestic wines? This spinoff of Philadelphia’s High Street on Market is all of the above, actually, and it even manages to make the multitasking look easy. Now that baker extraordinaire Melissa Weller has joined Ellen Yin and Eli Kulp as partner, she has made her presence known with a roster of real-thing bagels and pastries that combine French technique with a passion for ancient grains (as in the spelt scone) and worldly flavors (a black-sesame kouign-amann, for example). Her culinary collaborator, chef Mary Attea, has remade the savory menu with dishes like “torched” mackerel and beef on weck, which are inspired, respectively, by the restaurant where she previously worked (Annisa) and the city where she grew up (Buffalo).

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

What you need to know

Insider Tips The snug space has no actual bar, but there is a chef’s counter and a retail coffee and pastry station up front.

Recommended DishesThe Bodega breakfast sandwich, all pastries, beef on weck, skillet chicken, torched mackerel.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized