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Torn between presenting itself as whimsical and trendy or casual and comforting, Highpoint Bistro attempts both with questionable success. A young Chelsea crowd tucked among rustic red brick and candles sets the scene for new American dishes with clever monikers such as the expertly seared and seasoned crispy duck breast served with gooseberries, and “Not Your Mother's” meatloaf with truffled mushroom mac and cheese. The tableside presentation of the butternut squash soup with apples and marshmallows is dramatic, but the taste is overly sweet. Likewise, the arrival of the flatbread and the calamari in miniaturized shopping carts is quirky, but there is little naughty about the “Angry Calamari” except that it is slightly oily. Paintbrushes to decrumb the table are fun or overindulgent, depending on one’s mood. Eating at Highpoint Bistro is a visually stimulating experience, but the price point for many of the entrees places Highpoint in the company of some seriously foodie restaurants -- and unfortunately, not all the dishes withstand the comparison. — Lindsay Joelle

Crispy Duck breast, $29; pan-roasted organic chicken, $23