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Hill Country’s Marc Glosserman has already paid tribute to the cuisine and culture of his family’s native barbecue-crazed Lockhart, Texas. Now, with Hill Country Chicken,  he celebrates the home-style cooking of his grandmothers, Elsia and Betty — two women who were way ahead of the curve as far as current New York food trends go. Elsia (a.k.a. Mama Els) was the buttermilk-brined-fried-chicken expert, and Betty the pie-master, and both are the inspiration for chef Elizabeth Karmel’s menu. The chicken may be deep-fried and the service cafeteria-style, but Mama E. and Grandma B. would undoubtedly like the 100-seat bi-level space done up like a homey country kitchen in pale blues and yellows. Though what they’d make of the Texas hand roll — fried chicken tenders, coleslaw, sesame seeds, crushed almonds, and hot-pepper jelly wrapped in a flour tortilla — is anyone’s guess. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Mon.-Fri., 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.