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Known best as a wedding spot and B&B, the Historic Old Bermuda Inn is primarily a period restaurant located in a two-century-old rambling house, equipped with roaring fireplaces and filled with American antiques. It's also reputed to be haunted, giving a frisson to the birthday parties and baby showers held just beyond the large vestibule and parlor. Upstairs, there's a romantic, candle-lit dining room, and early birds favor taking their drinks in the adjacent pub. The menu leans on seafood classics, like moist crab cakes and fried calamari, and there's a diner-range selection among chicken, steak, pork chop, lamb, and pasta dishes, though the food is obviously secondary to the opportunity to gather a group in a cozy country inn near Staten Island's waterfront. The signature dish is the Bermuda Triangle, a puff pastry triangle filled with shrimp, lobster, and scallops cooked in sherry, as old-fashioned as the location. The Inn is often booked completely for private parties, and locals looking for a relaxed Sunday meal come for the Sunday buffet, which is usually jammed. — Jack Robertiello

Four courses, $32