A former P.J. Clarke’s bartender re-creates old New York at this Sutton Place saloon for the midtown business crowd. The two-story low-lit dark-wood interior adorned with a mahogany bar, pounded-tin ceiling, taxidermy, and photographs of old New York sports legends, is a hypermasculine place. The casual lunch service gives way to a boisterous happy hour, where bartenders skillfully mix classic cocktails like sidecars, old-fashioneds, and Sazeracs. The upscale comfort-food menu ranges from light bar snacks to button-popping entrees: The slow-roasted tomato soup is a solid wintertime pick-me-up, with a creamy texture and flavor that pops when dipped with the melted-cheddar croutons. The fried calamari is light, crispy, and a perfect vehicle to soak up the spicy housemade marinara. A pot of mussels comes at you two ways: the traditional white-wine garlic sauce East Side, and spicy marinara Brooklyn Style, both inspiring you to savor every last drop with their rustic garlic bread. The greatest draw is the burgers: The mini New York cheeseburger and the larger Hudson Malone cheeseburger are killer, but no match for the deluxe Third Avenue “El” burger, with cheddar melted into the bold patty made from short rib and sirloin.