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Park Slope’s Hunan Delight isn’t as good as it looks. Its clean, contemporary décor may be a leap forward for a neighborhood glutted with grab-and-go Chinese, but while the design’s bright reds, whites, and golds shoot for Sino-fabulosity, the kitchen’s output is more like dynastic chic on a budget. The Hunan-focused fare is fairly standard New York City-style Chinese complemented by several Thai-inspired curry dishes and a wealth of vegetarian options. Execution throughout is hit or miss. Non-spicy entrees are mild, even bland, and the kitchen can be heavy handed with salt-steamed bok choi that tastes as though it’s been cooked in sea water. That said, the boneless spareribs are ingenious and the mu-shu dishes come with four pancakes and not the paltry two you’ve come to expect. — Andrew Sessa

Boneless spare ribs, $6.95; moo shu beef, $11.95