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There is a logic to this curveball of a name: The eatery in question is a Hunan restaurant from the folks behind the Grand Sichuan mini-chain. Got it? Okay, then. Time to get to know Hunan cuisine, which is less commonly found in authentic form in New York than its fiery cousin from the Sichuan province. Chopped dry chiles are used liberally, as in a chopped chicken dish with tiny chunks of dried ginger; yes, you’re supposed to eat the chiles whole, and they’re not even that spicy. White pepper smoked beef pairs delicious thin jerky-like slices of meat with albino-seeming white pepper chunks to tasty effect. Be sure to sneak in an order of pumpkin cakes; their crisp texture and natural sweetness counter the spice and sourness of other dishes here, not to mention the prevalent taste of cumin. Ordering fish is bit confusing, since many options sound alike, but the good-natured staff can help if needed. BBQ fish is a tureen of whole creature with a parade of root vegetables; if it arrives toward the end, you may feel overwhelmed at the prospect of consuming it all. All the more reason to dine here with a group. — Jenny Miller

Pumpkin cakes, $3.95; white pepper smoked beef, $14.95; chicken with hot red pepper, $12.95