Profile

The team behind Park Avenue Cafe brings this intentionally cliché-inspired Polynesian spot to the old Porcao spot, with design from AvroKO. With moody lighting, crystal chandeliers, and plenty of mirrors, the typically raucous scene feels fitting for a boom-times night out or a bachelorette party: Dapper waiters clad in ivory jackets look like they just stepped off Fantasy Island; delicious Hawaiian fried rice comes to the table in a sizzling stone bowl, and you can even sip your cocktail directly from a whole coconut (or a watermelon, if you’re sharing). With Chef Craig Koketsu at the helm, the showy, throwback menu is better than it needs to be: tasty (and pricey) small plates like tuna tartare cones and spicy pork dumplings can be combined in a pupu platter sampler, while entrees are reliably sticky, tangy and sweet. Try the honey-glazed ribs served with lotus root or the crispy pig, its meaty chunks served Peking duck-style with steamed buns and crunchy garnishes. Seafood options abound as well, and while the skewered and glazed preparations predominate, we preferred the delicate, steamed snapper with seasonal mushrooms. — Carolyn Murnick

Imperial pupu platter for two ($37); Crispy peking pig ($38)