Profile

Formerly known as Hurricane Hopeful/Carmaya, this minimalist space serves decent, if unspectacular seafood and Italian.  Chowders, such as a traditional clam and a spicy Bahamian monkfish, anchor the menu while fried clams, mahimahi burgers and a whole fish of the day reveal a certain amount of ambition. The lobster roll is clam-shack simplicity: tender hunks of meat with just enough mayo to hold everything together. Among the old-world selections, a lobster pappardelle is as toothsome and rich as any nonna's, but a more distinctive Italian accent comes from the deconstructed, dunkable tiramisu, proof that owner Maya Pizzati hasn't gone Gidget quite yet.  Used boards (some for sale) hang above the wax-cloth-covered tables, and the sand-filled garden is a perfect spot to quaff a mojito. — Scott DeSimon

The post-Rockaway crowd swears by the weekend brunch, especially the Carmaya Plate, a heaping platter of breakfast items that includes pancakes, eggs, and bacon.

Lobster roll, $15; pappardelle with lobster, $15; New England clam chowder, $6.50

Related Stories

Featured In

• How to Pretend You’re in Cali (7/10/06)