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Even without a storefront on Roosevelt Avenue, crowds manage to find Ihawan, a Filipino eatery in Woodside’s mini-Manila. Smoky grilled meat perfumes the block, hinting at the specialty of the house long before the “home of the best bbq in town” neon comes into focus. A small takeout counter is squeezed into the first floor and narrow stairs lead up to a family-filled dining hall that’s spare while still evoking the comfort of an auntie’s house. Sweet, glazed pork is ordered by the stick—but don’t expect bite-sized satays. Instead, substantial flaps of meat, charred black and caramelized around the edges, take up the full length of bamboo skewers. Moist chicken cutlets and sizzling steak are prepared the same way. The sugariness is cut by achara, a tart pickle of shredded green papaya laced with carrots and raisins. On weekends, lumpiang sariwa (Filipino spring rolls) are available; fat and blintz-like, the thin eggy crepes contain chopped cabbage, jicama and shrimp and are doused with a soupy, garlic-studded peanut sauce. Avocado shakes, a dessert-drink hybrid combining crushed ice, sweetened condensed milk, and fruit puree refresh between bites of rich food. — Krista Garcia

Pork bbq, $2.25 per stick; lumpiang sariwa, $2.50