Mon-Thu, 10:30am-10:30pm; Fri, 10:30-midnight; Sat, 10am-midnight; Sun, 10am-10pm
N, W at Broadway
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
35th Ave. to 25th Ave., 45th St. to 21st St.
You might flit by this frumpy storefront, dismissing it as just another cupcake parlor. That would be a grave mistake. Inside, past the cupcakes and “Insane Homemade Brownies,” the delicate art of panini pressing is practiced almost clandestinely and with a high degree of finesse by Darren Lawless, who worked at Oceana and Lavagna in the East Village. In addition to panini, there’s a wide range of snacky items, like marinated sardines with smoked tomato and chili vincotto, and an egg-salad crostini judiciously drizzled with truffle oil. At night, they dim the lights and place candles on the tabletops like an Astoria version of ’ino.