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When Il Cantinori opened in 1983, it was a novelty—an Italian restaurant with nary a red sauce or a red checkered tablecloth in sight. Il Cantinori re-introduced New Yorkers to the concept of elegant Italian eateries and the satisfying food of Tuscany. But the hallmark of Tuscan fare is its use of top-notch ingredients prepared so that their flavor shines, and the pricey food at Il Cantinori has since crossed the line from simple to downright bland. Il Cantinori also commits the ultimate Tuscan blasphemy by serving asparagus and tomatoes out of season. The room remains prettily rustic with its exposed beams and dramatic flower arrangements, but time has passed this place by. The well-heeled crowd that still streams through the doors may not realize that there's much better Italian to be had nearby. — Natalie Danford

Polenta with Tuscan pot roast appetizer, $17.50; hazelnut ice cream sandwich, $10