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Il Corso offers refined, contemporary takes on dishes from all over Italy. The restaurant’s front dining room is cheerful, with beige painted walls, dark walnut wainscoting, upholstered wooden chairs, and abstract paintings in vibrant hues; the sexier back room has high-backed banquettes covered in a gold-toned fabric, and a skylight. The menu is the usual mélange of pastas, stews and roasts, though the veal cutlet Milanese is a standout. Il Corso’s owners are from Naples, which is perhaps the motivation for Chef Andrea’s guazzetto di pesce, a traditional fish stew from this southern metropolis. His capable version mixes mussels, baby clams, calamari, shrimp, scallops, and chunks of fresh fish in a light tomato broth subtly imbued with garlic. While little at Il Corso challenges the palate or the imagination, authenticity and competent execution are compelling enough for their mature clientele. — Michael Anstendig

Pappardelle al sugo di anatra, $21; battuta di vitello alla Milanese, $28.75; guazzetto di pesce, $32