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81 Warren St.,
New York, NY 10007
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Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm; Sat, 5pm-11pm; Sun, closed
1, 2, 3 at Chambers St.
$24-$55
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Required
The feeling of abundance, or abbondanza as the Italians call it, spills from every corner of this restaurant. It starts with an antipasto display in the foyer, with lobster tail-sized langoustines and giant wheels of cheese at its centerpiece. Inside the dining room, tuxedoed waiters rush about, reciting the long list of daily specials and serving affluent banker and broker types. Then an onslaught of food arrives--chunks of salty Parmigiano-Reggiano, rounds of soft and chewy salami, oil-laden fried zucchini, vinegary tomato bruschetta and aromatic garlic bread--even before you place your order. All of this signals what is to come in terms of portions: They are heaping, and though not advertised, half portions are available--a good idea for rich dishes like the agnolotti, fresh-made half moons of pasta stuffed with porcini, in a black truffle cream sauce. For dessert, just one slice of the ricotta cheese cake would have sufficed, but a serving holds three thick slabs.
Recommended DishesPorcini Agnolotti in black truffle cream, $20 half portion, $40 full; pollo alla Romana, $24.50
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