Il Mulino

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73 Totally Fine

The epitome of an old–New York Italian hangout, but with four-star prices.

86 W. 3rd St., New York, NY, 10012

212-673-3783

http://ilmulinonewyork.com

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Known For

The lowdown

This little bolt hole of a restaurant down on Third Street used to be famous as the small, extravagantly expensive, semi-exclusive dining club for assorted Wall Street plutocrats and wiseguys. But the original family owners, who were from the Abruzzo region of Italy, sold out several years ago, and now there are Il Mulinos of varying quality and reputation scattered around the globe in far-off locations like Miami Beach, Puerto Rico, Atlantic City, Tokyo, and even, God forbid, the Upper East Side. This kind of rampant empire building has inevitably diluted this original restaurant’s once-impressive sense of terroir, but the plutocrats still haunt the place, and maybe even a wiseguy or two, and although the prices are now officially insane, the time-honored dining formula — mountains of complimentary antipasti, a multitude of familiar red-sauce pasta dishes, great Gulliver-size cuts of meat — remains unchanged.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesRisotto with wild mushrooms and black truffle.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized