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Focusing on the cuisine of the Abruzzi region, Il Mulino is among New York's very best Italian restaurants. There's no big secret here, just the best ingredients (veal and shellfish are standouts) prepared with gutsy, garlicky, spicy sauces. Il Mulino is Old World in every way, from the solicitous but somewhat gruff service to the unfortunately cavalier attitude towards reservations (the phone is rarely answered and dinner reservations are typically honored late). Pace yourself, lest you fill up on the free snacks that arrive before the meal. — Steven A. Shaw

In-the-know Il Mulino regulars prefer the restaurant at lunchtime, when it's rarely crowded and service is much more relaxed.

Dress Code
Business casual; no jeans or sneakers; jacket preferred

Homemade ravioli with black truffles and creamy champagne sauce, $50