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Midtown's first sushi restaurant, and still a favorite of Japanese businesspeople, Inagiku has evolved into one of New York's more interesting Japanese eateries. Though the menu offers all the standard-issue stuff you'd expect, there are also many unusual, tiny dishes such as uni canapes and eel Napoleon that can be presented in tapas-like succession (perhaps preceded by an assortment of sashimi, as is the practice among the restaurant's experienced customers). A very elegant--and very expensive--way to dine, in the fabulous Art Deco Waldorf-Astoria Hotel. — Steven A. Shaw

Eel hakata (Napoleon of barbecued eel layered with shiitake mushrooms and spinach), $28; foie gras sushi, $14; uni canapes (sea urchin roe on uni toasts), $14