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Brothers Jason and Joe Denton have copied the Italian-small-plates menu from their rustic, always-packed Lower East Side restaurant ‘Inoteca and expanded it for the redo of their upscale, short-lived venture Bar Milano. The result feels a bit like downtown ‘Inoteca’s bizarro-world twin: Same style of food, dramatically different soul. Stripped tablecloths exposing shiny wood tables haven’t made the dining room any less lofty, and the slick bar area — with its pale wood, cool marble, and shimmering glass — is a holdover from the Bar Milano days; both sides are populated by the smartly dressed women and suit-clad men who live and work in the neighborhood. With a heftier menu, every portion invites sharing: Bruschetta with seasonal toppings comes by the piece; pastas easily feed two; and tremendous salumei stuffed panini are sliced for splitting. This location also boasts “spiedini,” meat kebabs, and a full liquor license here means deft resurrections of vintage cocktails at the bar. During busy hours, tightly wedged tables in the bar room go to waiting parties, so tell the hostess from the start if you’d prefer the main dining room. — Helen Rosner

Soppressata, goat cheese & tapenade panini, $11; bruschette, 3 for $7; polpo spiedini, $13; gamberoni w/ pancetta agro dolce, $18