Since crashing into New York on a tonkotsu tsunami in 2008, the Japanese chain has weathered the ramen craze, and an ever-growing list of competitors, to remain one of the city’s top. It’s done this while expanding with new locations and a market-vendor spinoff, Kuro Obi, specializing in chicken broth boiled for hours. This is because of top-flight pork buns and milky tonkotsu that’s still supremely sumptuous, but the restaurant has not rested on its noodles. (Which are housemade and retain the springy bounce that makes them so appealing.) The restaurant’s menu and space have evolved over the years, expanding beyond its porky roots with options like a vegetarian broth made silky with sesame seeds.