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Sporting a yacht-club motif, this neighborhood standby serves the Ralph Lauren set tasty Northeastern standards. Starters focus on seafood: Crab chowder and Prince Edward Island mussels making respectable showings even as the lobster quesadilla sails ahead. The idea of pasta may sound against the tide, but it can be surprisingly flavorful: Rigatoni is tossed with steamed broccoli florets and earthy roasted tomatoes, then studded with fennel sausage. Ultimately, though, Island is New England through and through, with the lobster roll as its raison d'être. Supported by the merest hint of sweet celery, generous chunks from the tail and claw are held together by a light mayonnaise and stuffed in a toasted bun. It’s not a ridiculous portion in terms of size, but a little state like Maine would be rightfully proud. — Benjamin Kneen

Lobster quesadilla, $14; rigatoni, $18.75; lobster roll, $26.50