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In the back of Isle of Capri is a small shrine with pictures of Maria and Vincenzo Lamanna, the restaurant's co-founders. Their two daughters are now in charge, and a feeling of family hospitality endures. Simple, classic preparations reflect Maria’s Calabrian roots. Fresh fish is complemented with white wine, mushrooms, and Dijon mustard, as in the salmone alla caprese, or white wine and lemon on the lightly breaded sole. Porcini ravioli is served in a pink sauce that doesn’t overpower pungent mushrooms. Heartier appetites are served by lamb chops, beef brochettes, and veal. The restaurant’s 1955 origins can be seen in the dated, black metalwork inside, although a 2001 restoration spiffed up the space. Arched walls framing Romanesque friezes are matched by vaulted ceilings thick with stucco for an overall effect reminiscent of a villa. In temperate weather, the enclosed sidewalk café opens up to Third Avenue. — Ethan Wolff

Antipasto, $16; salmone alla Caprese, $27; costoletta di vitello Valdostana, $35