Daily, 24 hours
A, C, E at 14th St.; L at Sixth Ave.; 1, 2, 3 at 14th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Houston St. to 30th St., Fifth Ave. to West Side Hwy.
Since its renovation in 2006, this Turkish restaurant has developed a dual personality: One side says sit-down and relax; the other says get your takeout in a rush. (A thin wall divides the two thoughts literally.) At the counter to the right, fluorescent lighting and a backlit diner menu shine on trays of pre-cooked rice, fat eggplants on the grill, and wheels of lamb and chicken gyro meat. To the left, a dimly lit, narrow dining room with wood paneling, embroidered rugs, and watercolor reprints encourages patrons to linger. The clientele is split as well: NYU students take advantage of the restaurant's 24/7 hours to combat hangovers with generous pita sandwiches; Middle Eastern men sit in the dining room to read the paper, sip Turkish tea, and nosh on meze platters. As the latter diners will attest, the kitchen's self-proclaimed from-scratch methods are best sampled via appetizers. Offerings like the piyaz (white beans with onion, lemon juice, olive and egg), the tangy sigara boregi (feta-stuffed, cigar-shaped pastries), and the impossibly thick homemade yogurts greatly surpass the tough, underspiced lamb of the entrees.Recommended Dishes
Combination plate, $12.95; baklava, $4; rice pudding, $4