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Don't expect a big map of the boot or any other clichés, visual or edible, at Italianissimo Ristorante. Despite the trite name, it's a homey 12-table spot, enhanced by fresh flowers, exposed brick walls, and dusty bottles of wine strewn throughout, with zero lasagna on the menu, although the kitchen will gladly prepare any unlisted classics. Specialties like homemade pappardelle strips in a creamy mushroom sauce flecked with sun-dried tomato, basil, garlic, and Pecorino cheese are perfectly satisfying, especially with Sinatra crooning in the background. Preparations span all regions of that non-existant map, although the clear focus is on veal scaloppini, with five versions on offer. The veal "saltimbocca" jumps in the mouth, as the name suggests; prepared with prosciutto, spinach, and sage, the thin veal slices taste smoky and buttery. A light zabaglione, prepared tableside with berries, wine, and a bit of razzmatazz, is a fitting finale. — Grace Bastidas

Pappardelle alla boscaiola, $18.95; spigola marechiaro, $22.95; vitello saltimboca, $19.95