Profile

From humble beginnings at Itzocan Café in the East Village, brothers Anselmo and Fermin Bello have progressed to an only marginally bigger, markedly more ambitious bistro in East Harlem, where he cooks the Franco-Mexican fusion that won him a following. South-of-the-border ingredients insinuate themselves into bistro fare in creative ways: A tequila-and-serrano-pepper broth animates steamed mussels. Rajas poblanas garnish duck pâté. Pork chops are seasoned with Negra Modelo beer. Happily, Itzocan’s low prices and gracious service traveled equally well. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld