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Although the eccentric name references a fishing lake in Minnesota, Jack the Horse is pure Brooklyn Heights. The double-storefront tavern fits into its small-town streetscape as if it had been there for decades. Vintage touches like a beige pressed-tin ceiling, exposed brick, and a wall of antique clocks have that well-scrubbed Heights look. The small bar area in front is frequented by locals enjoying East Coast pints from one of six taps. Craft paper covers the tables, so it makes sense that the food is equally unpretentious — top-quality ingredients and original combinations notwithstanding. Mac 'n' cheese is classed up by cavatappi and smoked Gouda. The roasted pork chop gets fancy with a celery-root purée and grilled apples. Even something as simple as a hamburger is upscaled with a ciabatta roll. This is what they mean when they say "nice and simple." — Ethan Wolff

Sunday mornings, you'll find homemade English muffins, crushed-red-potato home fries, eggs, pancakes, and granola on the menu.

Smoked-trout salad, $10; burger with fries, $14