Mon-Thu, noon-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Fri, noon-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight; Sat, 11:30am-3:30pm and 5:30pm-midnight; Sun, 11:30am-4pm and 5:30pm-11pm
4, 5, 6 at 86th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
80th St. to 95th St., Fifth Ave. to York Ave.
Low key and inviting, this two-room restaurant and bar serves French standards in a typically French setting—as we Americans like to imagine it, anyway. Posters of vintage ads and bohemian scenes à la Toulouse-Lautrec plaster the dark wooden walls, interrupted only by a few prominent mirrors and white lacy half-curtains stringing the windows. In the noisier front room, there's a TV and large bar, amply stocked with Belgian beer and outfitted with bar stools comfortable enough for dining. Almost all the remaining indoor seating takes the form of banquettes; the entry room has a central one shaped like a horseshoe, while another runs the perimeter of the stately main room. At most tables, you're likely to spot middle-aged groups and local families sharing the deservedly popular house specialty, moules frites: a steaming pot of mussels and a helping of crispy, thick, and salty fries. Fresh, plump, and not at all gritty, the mussels come with a choice of six sauces, encompassing the traditional (mild garlic, chardonnay, and parsley) and the far-flung (Thai ginger and lemon grass). Despite other crowd pleasers like roasted chicken with zesty mashed potatoes, much of the menu feels like a letdown. The flimsy trout, steeped in a bland buttery sauce, is a particular disappointment.Extra
Monday is Belgian Night Feast with moules frites plus a Belgian draft for $28 (cash only).Recommended Dishes
Tarte a l'oignon et chevre, $11; poulet rotis, $21; moules frites marinières, $20