Mon-Thu, 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-10:30pm; Sun, noon-10pm
1 at Van Cortlandt Park-242nd St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Being a sports bar is kind of like being a high-school jock: It’s great while it lasts, but few make the transition to a more sophisticated level comfortably. A welcome exception is Jake’s Steakhouse, an elegant, clubby meatery across from Van Cortlandt Park. Replete with dark gleaming wood and crisp white table linens, both the casual downstairs bar-and-booths area and the more formal dining room upstairs retain the mellow affability of a local watering-hole, but add to it the polish that a football hero’s parents can only hope he’ll acquire in the Ivy League. Flavors here are strong rather than subtle, but no less well-chosen for that: Jake’s filet mignon dresses up the flavorful meat with a sharp gorgonzola topping and frizzled onions, and a hefty serving of pork chops is unexpectedly enhanced by caramelized apples in a robust Dijon sauce. Even salads offer original and tasty combinations: The fried shallots in the mache and radicchio salad pair well with blue cheese and a balsamic vinaigrette. Standards like creamed spinach and garlic mashed potatoes are cooked to classical perfection. If there’s one thing sports fans appreciate, it’s maintaining those time-honored traditions.Extra
Jake’s offers valet parking every night.
Closed for lunch on Sundays June 22-August 17.
Jake’s filet mignon, $44; pork chops, $26