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A holdover from a Soho’s grimier past, this sprawling, weathered all-American cafeteria is a convenient breakfast and lunch stop for neighborhood regulars in a hurry. Picky colleagues can find whatever they crave; there’s a salad bar, a hot bar, a create-your-own pasta line, a sandwich shop, and a carving station where roast beef and corned beef are cooked hot daily and sliced on request. The chefs like to add in a few zingers like Mexican or Jamaican, but it’s better to stick to the basics. Burgers are meaty; frozen French fries are cooked to an ideal crunch. A corned beef brisket sandwich is piled high with tender cuts of salty meat that ooze so much juice that you need utensils to sop up the delectably soggy bread. — Pervaiz Shallwani

Brisket sandwich, $5.95