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JB’s Burger was a sleek French bistro in a former life, and hints of its past dot the cozy interior, with weathered Gallic ads for spices and umbrellas lining the walls. A candlelit plank-wood patio provides a more intimate atmosphere decorated in the same homey vein. With a menu limited to three generous salads, a bevy of sides, and four types of burger, JB’s is a straightforward entry into a crowded beefy field. Burger components laid on thick-enough slabs of quality beef, turkey, fish, and veggie mash don’t quite match a set of tiny toasted rolls that fit more like comic yarmulkes than proper buns; add a clump of relish and red onion crescents, and the same rolls carry the house hot dogs. Onion rings and fries satisfy under dollops of ketchup, but they almost certainly hail from the local freezer. — Patrick Coffee

Serious Burger, $11.25