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Jean Claude’s an unassuming little spot and a welcome change from the Parisian-style bôites that seem to cover Manhattan like poivre on steak. The restaurant serves the usual moules frites and mesclun with goat cheese, but the chef really excels at entrées de la mer like red snapper with leeks and artichokes, and grilled codfish, whose bell pepper sauce is as vibrant and robust as the fish is flaky and delicate. As for the décor, the beige walls are bare except for a few framed front pages of L’Equipe memorializing old soccer championships, and a few shelves lined with bottles of Côtes du Rhone. The 15-or-so tables are occupied by a leisurely crowd of multilingual locals chatting with the waitress en Francais. In true Continental style, said waitress will gladly leave you to linger over your tarte tatin and Muscat for as long as you like—which will almost certainly be awhile. — Amy Allison

Mon.—Thu., 6 p.m.—7:30 p.m., $25

Red snapper with leeks and artichokes, $20; grilled codfish with bell pepper sauce, $18