Jeffrey’s Grocery

Gabriel Stulman’s restaurant is a West Village mainstay: It’s enjoyable and bumping at any time of day. At brunch, it serves up excellent riffs on classic dishes, like smoked salmon benedict with baby spinach, charred tomato, and hollandaise or pancakes with candied pecans, whipped cream, and syrup. Weekday lunch means hearty crab-and-avocado toast, and a rotating dinner menu often includes the massive poached lobster spaghetti with clams, leeks, and tomato. The grocery has long since been cut, but the place also boasts a raw bar with oysters, king-crab legs, littleneck clams, and marinated mussels. The Plateau de la Mer, a selection of raw shellfish, is a good way to start the meal: Out of all of Gabriel Stulman’s restaurants in the area, Jeffrey’s is the most focused on seafood with dishes like whole roasted dourade, fish ‘n’ chips, and yellowfin carpaccio. There’s a big bar scene here, and since the restaurant’s pretty small, you’ll want to linger after your meal and enjoy a few of the stellar cocktails. Thursday through Saturday, it’s open until 2 a.m., serving a special late-night menu with the pastrami burger, grilled pimento-cheese sandwich, and full raw bar on offer. But even though it can get loud and rowdy, it still feels like a charming, intimate neighborhood diner.