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Gabriel Stulman's restaurant is a West Village mainstay: It's enjoyable and bumping at any time of day. At brunch, Jeffrey's Grocery's serves up excellent riffs on classic dishes, like eggs Benedict with crispy pork-belly rillette and French toast with apple jam. Weekday lunch means hearty crab-cake sandwiches and New England clam chowder, and a rotating dinner menu always includes the massive poached lobster spaghetti with clams, leeks, and tomato. All the food is cooked in the restaurant's small open kitchen (warning: you may leave smelling like your dinner), and the place also boasts a raw bar with oysters, king crab legs, littleneck clams, and marinated mussels. The Plateau de la Mer, a selection of raw shellfish, is a good way to start the meal: Out of all of Gabriel Stulman's restaurants in the area, Jeffrey's is the most focused on seafood. This restaurant also specializes in highbrow versions of hearty American favorites like nachos, po' boy sandwiches, and fried chicken. There's a big bar scene here, and since the restaurant's pretty small, you'll want to linger after your meal and enjoy a few of the stellar cocktails. Thursday through Saturday, it's open until 2 a.m., serving a special late-night menu of oysters, nachos, cheese, and a braised brisket sandwich. But even though it can get loud and rowdy, it still feels like a charming, intimate neighborhood diner.
— Sierra Tishgart

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• Fall Preview 2010: Cheapish Eats We’ve Got Our Eyes On (8/30/10)

Recipes at Jeffrey’s Grocery

• The Falero (2011)