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Avenue J in Midwood, the Queens-like commercial drag through one of Brooklyn's homiest 'burbs, has an abundance of Jewish eateries to choose from, including the sparkling Glatt Zone. But Jerusalem II Pizza is a neighborhood fixture—and good thing, since little about the fare compels a schlep. The restaurant has a regular NYC pizza-joint feel—hard plastic booths, clinical fluorescent lighting, dingy linoleum floors—distinguished by the poppy klezmer music playing over the PA. Unfortunately, aside from the thick, airy crust, J2's pies sustain the bland reputation of kosher pizza, with flavorless cheese, and sauce that lacks even a hint of herbs. A relatively safer option is the teeming buffet, with its assortment of Middle Eastern-accented salads, Yiddish-style casseroles and American-proportioned entrees. The poached salmon with stewed tomatoes and peppers is surprisingly delicate, and complemented well by a zesty, crisp tabouleh. Homemade soups and too-dry falafel are also available, as are ice cream and passable blintzes. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Poached salmon, $4.95/pound