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You must ascend an extra-long escalator to get to Jing Fong’s massive second-floor dining room where, in the mornings, Jing Fong’s specialty, dim sum, is served from wheeled carts by waiters in spiffy yellow jackets. During weekends the restaurant gets so busily chaotic that you might have to chase down the steamed dumpling or egg roll of your choice. But if you come after 3:30 p.m., Jing Fong becomes a lonely place—and with reason. This Chinese equivalent of the Italian-American catering hall is conveniently large (and garishly decorated) which makes it ideal for family gatherings or celebrations if it weren’t for the food. Steamed baby ribs can be sinewy and fatty; the plum sauce greasy and devoid of plum flavor. If you crave dim sum (or a dose of Chinese-inflected muzak), there are better choices in Chinatown. — Brian Silverman