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The generous use of fresh oregano and basil in the Northern Italian dishes, the wide-open spaces of the Art Deco dining room, the ample red-leather booths, and the dozen-seat bar are all worth appreciating at this eatery in the boutique Hotel Wales. What’s less a cause for enthusiasm is how they’ve jacked up the prices to the tin ceiling without consistently delivering quality on a similarly vertical trek. While more reasonably priced dishes like the Chicken Milanese are generous in portion, deep-fried cutlets are bland at best, and $30 pasta should be high-end and house-made. Seafood makes a better splash as in the spicy fra diavolo special (which makes frequent appearances on the menu). It’s a perfectly delightful mix of tender calamari, bay scallops, and shrimp. And that’s no fish tale. — Amy Zavatto

Grilled tiger shrimp with risotto, $24.75