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JoeDoe’s name—and the Courier font it’s printed in—signal the gastropub’s low-pretense foundation. The space is small and homey, with church pew benches and an antique-bar with a lunch counter feel. Exposed brick, wood floors and tables, and a black ceiling provide a contemporary-chic counterpoint. The tiny open kitchen in back stocks greenmarket ingredients for the eclectic seasonal menu. An heirloom tomato salad deftly balances fresh herbs and creamy dressing. Watermelon slices brighten a summer “Belly and Egg” appetizer that pairs charred pork belly with baked beans rich with pepper, vinegar, with hoisin undertones. Underscoring the neighborhood feel, there are riffs on pub fare, too. Irish-style cod comes in a savory broth of pork and ale. Quark curd cheese adds a creamy touch to barley in a stuffed green pepper. And for the table, deep-fried chickpeas served in lieu of bread, go great with beer. When the restaurant opened in 2008, there was some doubt whether it could establish a brunch following so close to area legend Prune, but JoeDoe has holds its own on weekends, with a reasonable wait for a table. — Ethan Wolff

Pork belly and egg, $11; Cod Irish style, $25

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Recipes at JoeDoe

• Matzo Brei (2009)