Profile

New Yorkers are sticklers for food traditions, so when Joe's Pizza, a Greenwich Village institution, closed in early 2005, pizzaphiles all over the city went into a panic. It didn't matter that a few doors down on Carmine Street, another Joe's Pizza run by Joe Pasquale, the same Joe of Joe's of Bleecker, was continuing to serve the exact same pizza in similarly shabby-tight quarters—it just wasn't the same. Unless you are one of those traditionalists, the Joe's on Carmine will more than suffice. It's the epitome of what a slice is supposed to taste like: thin-crusted, with the proper balance of bold sauce and cheese that tastes like cheese, not rubber. Joe's also bakes Sicilian slices and pies, but he doesn't do fancy pie concoctions, heroes, garlic knots, or other diversions. What you get is uncomplicated, solid, and very comforting pizza. And because Joe's is so popular, the pizza turns over quickly, which guarantees a fresh slice. Be prepared to wait on line during busy evening hours. You probably won't get a seat inside the tiny pizzeria, but take your slice outside and eat it like a real New Yorker—standing up. — Brian Silverman

Sicilian slice, $3