Mon-Thu, 11:30am-10pm; Fri, 11:30am-11pm; Sat, noon-11pm; Sun, noon-9pm
N, Q at 36th Ave.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
51st Ave. to Queensboro Plaza, Jackson Ave. to Vernon Blvd.
Owner Josh Bowen drew inspiration for this informal, sparsely decorated smoke joint from his hometown Kansas City. Those seeking proof need no more than a plate of burnt ends, a K.C. delicacy prepared here as twice-seasoned, twice-cooked morsels of fatty beef brisket whose smoky, caramelized edges give meaning to their popular nickname "meat candy." The rest of the menu, a smörgåsbord of slow-smoked, dry-rubbed meats, settles into a cozy cross of regional recipes. Bowen's dry rub, blending brown sugar and coffee with salt, pepper, and paprika, merges seamlessly with juicy pork spare ribs, which sport a subtle hint of wood smoke and layers of expertly rendered fat. Sliced brisket and pulled pork shoulder are less consistently tasty, but a locally made lamb sausage offers a complex bite of Midwestern 'cue by way of Greek Astoria. And the house's whole smoked chicken is astonishingly moist.Featured In
Burnt ends platter with side, $13; quarter rack pork spare ribs, $9; half chicken with side, $9