JoJo

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81 Good

Jean-Georges Vongerichten strips back old-school style for a revived JoJo.

160 E. 64th St., New York, NY, 10021

212-223-5656

http://jean-georges.com

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The lowdown

The rooms of this seminal town-house restaurant on East 64th Street have recently been renovated in a pale, slightly antiseptic, spalike palate to resemble other larger, more successful downtown ventures in the increasingly far-flung JVG empire. The cooking won’t shock the world, like it did when Jean-Georges opened his first-ever restaurant in the two-floor space back in the go-go ‘90s, but dumplings stuffed with peekytoe crab isn’t something you see in this staid part of town every day, and if you want to relive glory days, you can call for one of the daily blue-plate special “Jo Jo Classics,” like the famous roasted chicken with green olives, which is served Mondays only, with a stack of those famous chickpea fries, of course.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized