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While many of Brooklyn’s South Asian eateries seem interchangeable, Joy Indian Restaurant stands out for its superior cooking, quirky décor, and a friendly BYOB policy. This modest Park Slope spot, which opened in 2002, gets a regular crowd for all three. A mural of the New York skyline made of tiny changing lights is at first glance tacky, then oddly mesmerizing; folk art on beige walls adorned with corral sconces is complemented by a subtle Indian instrumental soundtrack. Chef Abul Basher, formerly of the East Village’s Haveli, runs the show. His huge menu embraces India’s numerous geographic regions, with slow-cooked and artfully spiced curries, moist tandoori dishes, and robust vegetable preparations. The deep-fried samosas and pakoras are greasy, however, so for starters, steer instead to the fresh shrimp. For mains, the crab pathia is a spicy delight, its reduced tomatoes and onions peppered with plucky yellow lentils. — Michael Anstendig

Fresh shrimp cooked in Bengal fashion, $5.95; baingan bhurta, $8.25; lamb vindaloo, $8.95; crab pathia, $13.95