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June is the kind of neighborhood spot that sparks high hopes: A small, banquette-lined lounge area gives way to close-set tables, separated into intimate nooks by gathered wire-mesh panels. The warmly lit bar is cozy, and the back room, with low-slung sofas, persimmon walls, and a tawny glow from overhead fixtures, invites lingering. But rather than relax into the kind of easy confidence the space inspires, the kitchen strives a little too hard, with dressed-up Southern-tinged stalwarts that don’t need the frills. Comfort-food staples like mac’n’cheese get fancy with a drizzle of truffle oil; the fungi reappear in house ‘mash’ potatoes. Sirloin and veg burgers are ample and filling, and a daily vegetable plate reflects the chef’s whim, the market, and the season. But beware of carelessness: dishes offered on the menu sometimes arrive at the table plated with different sides and sauces than promised. Desserts are made by the house pastry chef, who inexplicably dolls up a perfectly fine red velvet cake with an unnecessarily unctuous shower of sweetened, flaked coconut. Sometimes, simplicity is more welcome than innovation. — Helen Zelon

Weekend brunch at June goes international, with “Belgium” waffles, huevos rancheros, ricotta pancakes, and veggie burritos, along with an impressive range of specialty cocktails.