Profile

Don’t let beaten-up tables, mismatched chairs, or bare walls scare you from this friendly East Village spot. The laissez-faire décor contrasts with pristine, precise preparations of Japanese home cooking, sushi, and sashimi. More like a comfy neighborhood restaurant in Tokyo, Kamui Den attracts a crowd of boisterous expats who seem happy to share the center communal table with curious locals. The kitchen turns out unadorned, flavorful favorites like dengaku (tofu and eggplant with miso sauce), tempura, and exemplary soba noodles. Raw fish is vibrantly colorful, smoothly textured, and pure-tasting. It’s worth budgeting time for the shiratama dessert, which takes twenty minutes to prepare; a kind of sweet dumpling with red beans and sesame sauce, it’s a rare treat. Kamui Den fills up early and stays packed, so arrive as close to the 7pm opening as you can. — Michael Kaminer

Dengaku, $7; udon hot pot, miso flavor, $13; grilled salmon with natural salt, $14.