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In the city that never sleeps, Kangsuh, a Koreatown staple since 1983, never closes. The bi-level restaurant is open 24/7, including Christmas and New Year's, and is generally jammed with Korean and Japanese businessmen, as well as tourists. The first floor is dominated by a sushi bar, offering the usual raw fish permutations. Better to head upstairs, where traditional Korean cuisine dominates. As a starter, the must-have Mandoo Gui (fried beef dumplings) sport paper-thin skins and are greaselessly golden. The menu also offers a huge array of soothing, slow cooked soups, stews, and casseroles that suffuse meats, seafood, and vegetables with garlic, soy bean, and red pepper paste. Soon dooboo chigae features velvety soft tofu with surprising bits of baby squid, tiny mussels, and a whole clam in a spicy broth. The large ventilation hoods above each table bespeak the lusty flavors of Korean tabletop barbecue. The restaurant, however, has replaced their live charcoal grills with gas. While this no doubt pleased the landlord and fire department, the resulting meats, such as kalbi (short ribs of beef marinated in soy sauce) while flavorful, lack primordial smokiness. That said, you won't need to send your clothes to the drycleaner afterwards. — Michael Anstendig

For larger orders, deliveries are available beyond the usual delivery area and hour limitations.

Mandoo gui, $7.25; soon dooboo chigae, $13.50