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Should Manhattan's relentless frenzy for change ever wear you down, consider a restorative visit to this steadfast institution for urban carnivores. An iconic chophouse, Keens refuses to coast on its century-plus pedigree, proudly preserving its red-blooded menu along with its clubby Victorian mien. A warren of vintage-1885 rooms—from a splendid antique bar to chandeliered upstairs havens—harbor romantic tête-à-tête, single malt-fueled expense-account blowouts, and post-shopping or pretheater dinners. Many regulars eschew appetizers and desserts, focusing instead on impeccably cut, lovingly cooked, gargantuan slabs of meat. Keens' signature dish is the mutton chop, a colossal roasted hunk of flavorful mature lamb (otherwise known as sheep). Beef proves equally alluring. A juicy, charred T-bone requires only a dash of salt, a side of fries, and a California Cabernet from the concise wine list. — Karen Tina Harrison

In 1901, Lillie Langtry, the reigning actress of her day, won women the right to dine at Keens.

Sliced tomatoes and onions with Neal's Yard Stilton, $13.50; mutton chop, $45; T-bone steak, $47.50; fries, $8

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