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Just our luck. With the kitchen fresh out of turkey testicles and bull penises we were left to choose from the list of 100 or so other small plates at this raucous izakaya. We gnawed on grilled corn-on-the-cob drizzled with the house sweet sauce, wallowed in a gooey okonomiyaki (cabbage-and-egg pancake), and almost sparked a flame jousting chopsticks over an unctous miso-marinated grilled mackerel. Codgers and Bloomberg beware: This place is as loud as a Times Square pinball arcade. Speakers that the owners must have scored cheap from the MTA don't help. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Reservations are not accepted on Fridays and Saturdays.