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The short history of this space on DeKalb makes a tidy analogue to Fort Greene’s own transformation. It once housed a booze shop (the “Liquor Store” sign still hangs above the restaurant), then the beloved Liquors restaurant, and now this Moroccan spot, which trumpets a roster of tapas-sized dishes and reveals a predilection for local and sustainable ingredients. There are just nine tables lined up against a concrete wall hung with mirrors, plus two more in nooks near street-facing windows. But the dusky lighting and the dappled glow cast by hanging lanterns make the slender space feel inviting and intimate rather than cold and cramped. Still, you’re likely to be elbow to elbow as you dig into little links of juicy mergeuz sausage placed over red pepper coulis or swipe triangular chicken-stuffed pockets of shatteringly crisp dough through tangy yogurt sauce sweetened with raisins. The more substantial lamb tagine, cooked and served in the namesake cooking vessel with its distinctive conical top, might not compare to its Bay Ridge counterparts, yet its restrained honeyed sweetness and accompanying ultra-light couscous come closer than you’d expect. — JJ Goode

Seven-vegetable couscous, $14; lamb tagine, $21; chicken briouats, $6; grilled mergeuz, $6