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This venue is closed.

There's always been something pleasantly off-kilter about this place. If you walked in cold and checked out the large tables of politely raucous youth just on the brink of responsibility, you'd guess this venerably cool Soho hangout is probably known for its grilled salmon and smothered pork chops. Nothing about it suggests the spicy, untricky Thai food it serves up with no fuss. The menu touches all the bases: satay, pad Thai, tom yum gung. Kin Khao is a great compromise when you want something exotic and your visiting relatives want someplace hip. And the prices are so affordable you can reach for the check first and look like a success. — Hal Rubenstein

In high season, Kin Khao only accepts reservations for parties of 6 or more.